Coral Fragging Checklist for Beginner Reefers

Begin with mushrooms, zoanthids, green star polyps, xenia, or branching hammer and frogspawn corals. These are generally more forgiving than Acropora or other SPS, which often react poorly to beginner mistakes in handling, alkalinity swings, or light changes.

Do not cut a coral that is already receding, closed up for days, or showing tissue damage. A healthy donor colony heals faster and is less likely to develop bacterial infection after fragging.

New corals need time to settle in, adapt to your tank's PAR, flow, and nutrient levels, and show stable extension. Fragging too early often stacks transport stress with cutting stress, which can lead to losses.

Branching LPS can often be cut at the skeleton, while zoanthids may be peeled or sliced from a mat, and mushrooms may need a different approach entirely. Misidentifying the coral is a common beginner mistake that causes torn tissue or shattered skeletons.

Practice on fast-growing, lower-cost corals before attempting high-end torches, acans, or named zoa varieties. This reduces pressure and lowers the financial hit if your first few frags fail to attach or heal properly.

Use a stable table with good lighting, paper towels, and separate containers of tank water for rinsing and dipping. A dedicated workspace helps you stay organized and keeps coral slime, glue, and debris out of the main aquarium.

Zoanthids can contain palytoxin, and many corals release mucus or irritants when cut. Nitrile gloves and safety glasses are basic protection that every beginner should treat as non-negotiable.

Bone cutters work well for many branching LPS and SPS skeletons, a sharp scalpel is useful for soft tissue corals, and coral saws are best for precise hard coral cuts. Using the wrong tool often crushes tissue instead of making a clean separation.

Prepare ceramic plugs, small rubble pieces, or frag discs in advance so fresh cuts are not left sitting too long. Corals dry out quickly, and beginners often lose time looking for supplies after the coral is already cut.

Thick super glue gel is ideal for many frags, while epoxy can help stabilize heavier pieces. Having both options gives you flexibility when a coral skeleton is uneven or a plug surface is awkward.

Many reefers use iodine-based dips or coral disinfectants after fragging to reduce infection risk. Follow manufacturer instructions carefully and use water from the tank, not fresh mixed saltwater with mismatched temperature or salinity.

Corals heal better when salinity is stable and close to natural seawater levels. Fragging during a salinity swing from evaporation or a recent water change adds unnecessary stress.

Temperature swings slow recovery and can trigger tissue recession, especially in LPS and SPS. Check that your fragging containers and tank water stay within this range during the entire process.

Stable alkalinity is more important than chasing a specific number, but a range around 8 to 9 dKH is a safe target for many mixed reefs. Fragging corals during recent dKH swings can cause poor extension and delayed encrusting.

Aim for calcium around 400 to 450 ppm and magnesium around 1250 to 1350 ppm, especially when fragging LPS or SPS. These parameters support skeletal growth and healing after the cut site is exposed.

Nitrate around 5 to 15 ppm and phosphate around 0.03 to 0.10 ppm are often easier for beginners than running an ultra-clean system. Corals healing from cuts can struggle in tanks where nutrients are bottomed out and tissue looks pale.

Wait a few days after large water changes, dosing adjustments, or equipment failures before cutting coral. Beginners often stack too many changes at once, making it hard to tell what caused stress if the frag declines.

Branching corals usually heal better when cut at thinner skeleton sections, and zoanthids or encrusting corals are safer to separate along visible growth lines. This reduces tissue damage and improves the odds of a clean recovery.

Work quickly and return the coral to tank water between steps to prevent tissue drying. Beginners often spend too long inspecting or gluing, which can stress delicate tissue and slime coats.

After cutting, gently swish the frag in clean tank water to remove mucus, skeleton dust, or loose tissue. This helps glue adhere better and keeps excess debris out of your frag rack or display.

Pat the frag plug and the coral's attachment point briefly with a paper towel so the gel glue bonds faster. You do not need to dry the whole coral, just the area where the glue will contact skeleton or mat.

A pea-sized amount is usually enough for small beginner frags, though larger LPS heads may need more support. Press firmly but gently so the coral sits stable without crushing flesh against the plug.

Use a simple numbering system or waterproof marker on the rack or plug tray so you can track which frag came from which colony. This is especially helpful when comparing healing speed, color, and growth after the first week.

Healing frags need enough flow to prevent detritus buildup, but too much flow can peel tissue or knock them loose. For many beginner setups, a gentle, indirect area of the frag rack works best for the first several days.

Freshly cut frags are often more sensitive to intense light, especially if they were handled out of water. If the parent was at 150 to 200 PAR, start the frag a bit lower and move it up gradually after signs of recovery.

Early intervention matters, especially with LPS frags that can decline fast after a bad cut. Look for cloudy mucus, exposed skeleton expanding, or a glue bond that has failed so you can dip, re-mount, or isolate if needed.

Do not force-feed stressed corals right away, particularly fleshy LPS that may not hold food. Once polyps extend normally, you can offer small foods like mysis or reef roids in modest amounts to support recovery.

Beginners often over-adjust fresh frags by moving them repeatedly or checking glue every few hours. Stability is usually better than constant tinkering once the frag is placed in an appropriate healing spot.

A frag is not really established just because it survived the first day. Wait until the cut edge looks sealed, the frag stays attached, and the coral shows regular extension before considering it ready to move.